Salam, future me and fellow travellers.
What Is Nusa Lembongan?
Nusa Lembongan is a small island off the southeast coast of Bali, roughly 8.7 square kilometres in size and about 45 minutes from Sanur by fast boat. It sits in the Nusa Islands group alongside Nusa Ceningan, which you can walk to via a narrow yellow suspension bridge, and the much larger Nusa Penida just beyond. Together the three islands form one of the best diving regions in Southeast Asia.
The island has no cars (only lorries). Roads are narrow, traffic is scooters and the pace is completely different from Bali’s mainland. Once a humble seaweed farming village, Nusa Lembongan has grown into a quiet resort island with boutique guesthouses, dive centres, warungs and a coastline of white sand beaches, mangrove forests and dramatic cliffs. It has developed but it has not been overdeveloped. You still feel the island underneath the tourism.
For divers it is one of the best locations in the world. Mola Mola, manta rays, drift diving, turtles, macro life. All within a short boat ride from shore. For a Muslimah travelling here, it takes a little more planning than most destinations in Indonesia. Here is what you need to know.
I want to be honest with you upfront.
Nusa Lembongan is not a Muslim-friendly destination in the way that most of Indonesia is. It is a small Hindu-majority island with no mosque, limited halal options and a food scene. As a Muslimah you can absolutely visit, have a wonderful time and eat well. But you need to know what you are walking into before you arrive.
This is the guide I wish I had.
A hijabi in Nusa Lembongan
A hijabi on Nusa Lembongan is rare. I noticed it. I could probably count with my fingers.
That said, this is Indonesia after all. The country has the largest Muslim population in the world. Even on a predominantly Hindu island, Islam is not foreign. Some of the staff I met greeted me with Salam. Unprompted. That small moment meant more than I expected it to.
The overall reception was warm and respectful. Nobody made me feel out of place. The island receives visitors from everywhere and the locals are used to difference. Just do not expect the familiarity of a Muslim-majority environment because you will not find it here.
The Mosque Situation
There is not a single mosque on Nusa Lembongan. This took me surprise as this is Indonesia.
The island is predominantly Balinese Hindu.
What I did: I combined prayers and prayed at the hotel. Dhuhr and Asr together, Maghrib and Isha together. It is a valid concession when you are travelling and it made the days manageable without feeling like prayer was constantly disrupting the schedule or the schedule was constantly disrupting prayer.
Download a qibla app before you arrive. The direction of qibla from Nusa Lembongan points northwest. Prayer time apps work fine on the island as long as you have wifi or data.
Halal Food
Halal food on Nusa Lembongan is genuinely difficult. Not impossible, but you have to navigate carefully and ask a lot of questions.
The island’s restaurants largely cater to international tourists and serve pork, alcohol and non-halal meat as standard. Unlike Muslim-majority parts of Indonesia, there is no default assumption that the food is halal. You cannot walk into most places and assume the meat is safe.
I ate at a mix of local warungs and tourist restaurants across my stay. Your safest options everywhere are vegetarian dishes and seafood in eatery.
Vegetarian food is widely available. Gado-gado, nasi goreng made with vegetables, tempeh, tofu dishes and fresh fruit are all reliable. Most eaterly can accommodate you if you ask clearly.
Fresh seafood is generally safe.
There is no halal certifications . So here are some places I ate. Do note that below restaurants many contain non halal food.
– Tiga Cemara Cafe
– Jungle Bakery
– Little Prema Warung
– Dapur Kecil Lembongan (halal meat according to local)
Check the Cakes and Pastries
Some baked goods and desserts on the island contain alcohol. Rum in cake is more common than you would expect. Not labelled, not obvious, just there.
Ask specifically about baked goods and pastries and desserts before you eat them. Most staff will answer directly. The ones who look uncertain are the ones to skip.
Eating Practical Tips
- Stick to vegetarian or fresh grilled and steamed seafood
- Always ask about sauces and marinades
- Ask specifically about cakes and desserts before eating
- If you are particular about halal certification, bring some snacks and instant noodles from the Bali mainland before you cross
For the full diving guide: I Got My Advanced Open Water in Nusa Lembongan and Threw Up on the Boat